Understanding Mexican Cuisine

Discussion in 'Food & Travel' started by jmarquez1976, Jan 17, 2006.

  1. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!

    Okay. BTW, I did it at a nice Mexican restaurant in the Mission District a couple of years ago. They did a great job with Cocktails & Ceviches...it was on a corner, had cool decor & specialized in Seafood....does this ring a bell?
     
  2. 655321

    655321 New Member

    Jul 21, 2002
    The Mission, SF
    Hmmm...not off hand, no. But I've eaten at most of restaurants in the neighborhood. If you remember anymore about it, let me know.

    BTW...only half-kidding about the Tex-Mex. I was raised in Texas and honestly, it taste better to me than the traditional Mexican food. But only becaus I'm accustomed to the taste of it more.
     
  3. Don Boppero 3000

    Don Boppero 3000 DNALMQNLGLLMX!

    Jan 15, 2001
    The Fullerton Hotel Chicago
    Club:
    Club América
    Nat'l Team:
    Mexico
    The stuff you learn at Bigsoccer.
     
  4. 655321

    655321 New Member

    Jul 21, 2002
    The Mission, SF
    Someone will debate it, I'm sure, and perhaps they're correct. But I've read several times that it was an invention of the Chinese who came to SF. They literally took all their leftovers, mixed them together, and sold it 'as is' to the prospectors who came into town and didn't have lots of money.
     
  5. tog

    tog Member

    Oct 25, 2000
    Seattle
    That's the "Mission Style" burrito, as invented in the Mission District in San Francisco.
     
  6. tog

    tog Member

    Oct 25, 2000
    Seattle
    I see this has been covered.
     
  7. tog

    tog Member

    Oct 25, 2000
    Seattle
    By the way, jmarquez, this is a fantastic thread (although the condescending tone is a little over the top).

    Authentic Mexican food is fantastic. I grew up in California and had many Mexican friends whose parents were first-generation or immigrants. Also, I spent my college years in Walla Walla, WA, which has a huge Mexican migrant worker population. When we played soccer tournaments with them, the great food (especially street food) would flow. I loves me some torta. Ooh, and lengua tacos.

    That said, I also like Americanized Mexican food. I think of it as an entirely different type of cuisine, but delicious (when done well) in its own right.

    Similarly, as the son of an Italian immigrant (Rome), I have spent my entire life eating the most authentic Italian (Roman and Umbrian, mostly) food there is. I know a lot of people talk down about American-Italian food. I try not to. Certainly, I wish people didn't think it was authentic Italian, but as a separate cuisine of its own, it's quite delicious...even if it barely resembles what my grandmother would put on her table in Rome.

    Once I learned to make that distinction, I was a much happier eater.
     
  8. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!

    I apologize if this seems condescending....I am not sure how much people know about Mexican cuisine & cooking in general etc., I agree with your comment on Americanized cuisine....when its done right, it can be as great as anyother...that goes for Mexican, Italian, Chinese & others.

    My agenda...is that Authentic Mexican cuisine (as is true of Italian & Chinese) is extremely healthy & tasty...and that it is CRUCIAL to introduce it at its best...so that we can fight the serious Life Style related Health problems that will cripple Americans in the next couple of generations.

    Italian, Mexican & Chinese Cuisines (for example)...are part of the World's Great Six Cuisines along with French, Turkish & Spanish (as determine by the world's Chefs)....and coincidentally all of those cuisines have great tricks for preparing Vegetables delicously without requiring to obscene amounts of bad fats.
     
  9. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Direct Grilling

    Grilling over Mesquite Charcoal has also been part of the repertoire for thousands of years. There are tree types of grilling done in Mexico:

    > Grilling right on the Iron Grates...exposed to the direct flame
    > Grilling indirectly...via a barrier of Banana Leaf or Agave
    > Grilling way above the flame...as a combination of Grilling & Smoking (Zarandear)


    There are several great Mexican traditions around Direct Grilling:

    > The use of "flavorful" mesquite dead wood
    > The invention of the Skirt Steak cut of meat....which takes a tough but extremely flavorful & gamey cut, that is vastly improved by cutting across the grain & lightly marinating with a little bit of acid.
    > The use of Citrus Marinades and Chipotle Marinades/Bastes on Chicken, Turkey & Pork to render supremely flavored grilled meats.
    > The use of Beer, Onion & Cilantro marinade on Skirt Steak

    Most of Mexico...is uninterested with expensive Center of Animal cuts like Ribeye & Filets. However, that is what Northern Mexico has always been known for. In addition, the Unites States did not have a strong Beef or Grilling tradition prior to the annexation of Texas.

    > Angus cattle was brought to the New World by the Spaniards. At the time of the American Revolution, pork was the staple in the U.S., and nobody grilled. People stuck to traditional English & German cooking methods of Boiling & Oven Roasting.
    > Grilling was a Mexican/New Spain innovation that fused the traditional Pre-Hispanic Griddle Searing with Spain's Middle Eastern methods of Roasting over a direct flame.

    In Northern Mexico...you will still find Angus Cattle ranches that produce prime cuts of beef. The North has bragging rights over a couple of dishes:

    > The Filet Mignon served on Chipotle-Mushroom sauce
    > The Filete Cabreria (a bone in, hefty veal Ribeye)

    In addition, in Contemporary Mexican restaurants you will find Filet Mignons served in a great variety of tradtional Mexican sauces as well as some innovative ones like Espresso-Mole sauce.


    Mexican Skirt Steak served quite rare:

    [​IMG]


    Steaks & Mexican Onions on the grill:

    [​IMG]


    Mexico also has its version of the Parillada. Similar to Argentinian Parrillada & Brazilian Churrascaria...a small grill, with a small glowing fire, packed with various cuts of meat & vegetables is brought to the table. In Mexico, the Parillada is not limited to beef & includes Pork Chorizo & Chicken as well:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Indirect Grilling

    We place Banana Leafs (and other plants) directly on the Grill to protect delecate items such as Fish Fillets....allowing us still grill them quickly, capture smokey flavors, produce grill marks, and add the herby flavor of Banana Leafs with out destroying the food.


    This cooking method is very, very common in the Yucatan were it is refered to as Xic.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Zarandear is the process of grilling fish (or other tender foods such as vegetables) in a grilling basket high above an open fire. The result is a juicy, smokey fish that doesn't need much accompaniment to entice. Trout & Salmon are the perfect fishes for this technique:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Don Boppero 3000

    Don Boppero 3000 DNALMQNLGLLMX!

    Jan 15, 2001
    The Fullerton Hotel Chicago
    Club:
    Club América
    Nat'l Team:
    Mexico
    That's JuanMar for you.


    :)
     
  13. DoctorD

    DoctorD Member+

    Sep 29, 2002
    MidAtlantic
    Club:
    Philadelphia Union
    Nat'l Team:
    United States
    Great thread.

    Now let's move on to beer. Don't tell me Mexicans don't drink beer. :D
     
  14. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!

    I will get to beverages soon enough (Classic Mexican Beers, the Mayan Origins of the Cocktail, Pulque, Sparkling Wines, & earthy German Wines) etc., etc.,
     
  15. dark knight

    dark knight Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Dec 15, 1999
    Club:
    Leicester City FC
    Just some random comments -

    I'm not sure Cal-Mex and Tex-Mex should only be judged in comparison to the real thing. I think, like a lot of American hybrid cuisines, they can be judged on their own merits. I grew up on Tex-Mex and love certain aspects of it -- like a little sour cream -- and I think some California Mexican can be really great. My gringo tastes appreciate the flour tortilla more than corn tortillas - just the way I was burn I guess.

    Did you mention Gorditas? I would guess they fall in the Sope class but they are something that I see fairly often on offer.

    Speaking of flour tortillas, are they eaten in Mexico often/ever? When, how and where?

    Eggrolls are also a Yank invention.
     
  16. tog

    tog Member

    Oct 25, 2000
    Seattle
    Yeah, that's pretty much what I was saying, too. You have to look at Americanized cusines as cuisines in and of themselves, and ofeten delicious in their own right.

    Hell, I grew up tpartly in Italy, and I can eat at chain Italian places. As long as I'm thinking of it as entirely different food, it works.

    Now, if I could just get everybody to pronouce "bruschetta" (broo-SKET-ta) correctly, I'll be happy... :D
     
  17. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    (1) Yeah, I forgot Gorditas. Also a common street food in Mexico. Bigger than a Sope...sliced through the middle and stuffed on the inside. Also, similar to the Salvadoran Pupusa.

    (2) Flour tortillas have always been widely consumed in Northern Mexico...where Corn does not grow well, and also because of the Jewish influence there. In the U.S., Flour tortillas are typically better...because the tortilla factories here are terrible at Corn tortillas (I am not sure why they can't replicate what is found in just about every town in Mexico :confused: )....but in Mexico where Corn Tortillas are made correctly...its not even close, I just love the earthy flavor of freshly ground corn, combined with the smoke from the fire & the flavor transferred from the Volcanic Rock griddles.

    (3) Sour Cream is not a Un Mexican....its just that in Tex Mex cuisine, it gets used on already fatty foods. Although, I should note that authentic Mexican Crema is tangier & creamier...more than anything its like a cross of Yogurt & Creme Fraiche (in fact it oftens contains Active Cultures). Crema serves a similar purpose as a Cool contrast to a spicy sauce.

    (4) I am not surprised about Egg Rolls...in fact an interesting side note, is that many Chinese Immigrants came to Northern Mexico (Sinaloa & Baja California) to build the Railroad (after they were kind of kicked out of the U.S.)...and they also invented the Chimichanga, a sort of Egg Roll stuffed with quasi-Mexican flavored meats & potatoes.
     
  18. astabooty

    astabooty Member

    Nov 16, 2002
    China
    Club:
    FC Barcelona
    Nat'l Team:
    United States
    got to say that it looks delicious, good job jm.
     
  19. dark knight

    dark knight Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Dec 15, 1999
    Club:
    Leicester City FC
    That is interesting - I had no idea. OT, but it's funny how lots of Mexican places are run by Chinese in New York. The food isn't great but some of them make good flour tortillas.

    I forgot to mention that burritos aren't that big in Texas - at least the SF stuffed with rice kind, although I'm sure they are more common now than when I was growing up. I just don't get the point of all that rice in a burrito.
     
  20. oman

    oman Member

    Jan 7, 2000
    South of Frisconsin
    Agreed. I would like to see Texas pick up the pace wtih burrito development. They have Chipotle and Freebird World Burrito (I am getting the name wrong) but those are the chains and it would be nice to get more independents.

    Cali has some great burrito places.

    My biggest beef is that Texas just doesn't have more Mexican style taco places with four guys behind a counter cranking them out. You can find them but you have to look too hard.
     
  21. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Alright, I am back....this morning I intend to round out the major cooking techniques used in Mexico.
     
  22. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Griddle Searing

    The Comal is a Mexican's best friend.
    [​IMG]

    The Comal is used to griddle Tortillas as well as for preparing any type of food imaginable. It is particularly used for quickcooking meats, seafood & vegetables and for roasting chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, garlic for salsas. This ancient tool, which goes back 4 to 6 thousand years, is used to perfectly sear your favorite foods (a very popular contemporary technique in Haute cuisine).

    [​IMG]

    For a very easy, yet impressive, Mexican dish use a Comal (or Griddle) to produce perfect spicy Shrimp:

    > Put a very, very light coat of oil on the Comal and bring it up to temperature over a Medium-High heat
    > Place the lightly salted shrimp on the Comal...& flip as soon as the bottom half has turned pink (about 30 seconds)
    > When the other side is slightly pink, but not yet fully cooked...spoon your favorite salsa over the shrimp (traditional combinations include Tomatoe-Jalapano, Tomato-Chipotle & Salsa Verde)
    > The sauce will immediately boil & lock on to the shrimp producing a perfect glaze (without using sugar or fat)...allow the shrimp to cook thoroughly (no more than 30 seconds or so)
    > This tecnique works great with very thin pounded (or Mongolian sliced) filets of sirloin, skirt steak, pork, chicken breast, turkey, lamb, crawfish...you name it.


    The Comal method is also great for vegetables, simply julienne or slice vegetables thinly, add a little bit of oil...sear on medium / medium-high until the vegetable is al dente (if the vegetables dry out too much...just sprinkle on a little bit of water)....then add the salsa, adobo or mole of your choice.

    One of my favorite dishes when I go back to Mexico are "Huevos Divorciados" (Divorced Eggs)....which is a breakfast of 1 Egg that is Poached in Green Sauce, 1 Egg that is Poached in Red Sauce...and they are divided by Beans or Potatoes or Fresco Cheese etc., I use the same concept at home...where I prepare say Shrimp & Vegetables (Mex Zucchini, Scallions, Greens) on the Comal at the same time....but I keep them on seperate side and use Tomato-Jalapeno salsa on the Shrimp & Tomatillo-Serrano salsa on the vegetables....then a nice cool wedge of Avocado or Fresco Cheese in between them for contrast (& to cleanse your palette).


    In addition, the Comal is also used to make great Lobster & Crab....however in that case....you need to continously add a little bit of water, broth, or watered down salsa...so that you maintain a light vapor throughout the cooking process.
     
  23. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Steaming

    [​IMG]


    The classic Tamalera (Tamale Pot) is used mainly to steam Tamales, but is also used for Seafood steaming & boils...very similar to the Cajun counterpart.


    The Tamal is one of Mexico's classic party foods. They are definitely not something you eat on a daily basis, are very laborious to make....and their best use is as a hearty, imaginative small dish...that holds up great for several days. You can make them ahead of time...then just Steam Re-Heat what you need at the moment.

    A tamal is basically, a Corn Dough (laced with high quality Lard)...spread in a thing layer over a wrapper, then topped with Saucy Meats, Vegetables, Cheeses or Fruits, Nuts, Jams for Sweet Tamales. And then steamed until tender.


    Most tamales are wrapped in the Dried Corn Husks
    [​IMG]

    In Southern & Eastern Mexico they are usually wrapped in Banana Leafs
    [​IMG]

    The tamal also ranges in size from the very petite sweet & cocktail tamales (3 inches long) to the tamalones in Veracruz which are typical 3 to 6 FEET long. One of the things I like about the tamalon, is that they serve a slice of it over a similarly flavored sauce....so the flavor experience is very intense.

    I stress again that the tamal, in its native environment, is a small plate used for parties & get togethers...any attempt to serve it with Rice, Beans & Sour Cream and pass it off as an Authentic Mexican meal....is wrong. I object to this, not only as a Mexican, but as a foodie because it destroys the tamal flavor profile & the experience.
     
  24. dark knight

    dark knight Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Dec 15, 1999
    Club:
    Leicester City FC
    If you mean corn tortilla/authentic tacos you are probably right, but there are lots of little taco places in Austin.
     
  25. jmarquez1976

    jmarquez1976 New Member

    May 5, 2005
    No muerdas!
    Alright....I have posted enough about Mexican Cooking Techniques & Styles to give you guys a good idea (hopefully) of what types of dishes are missing when you visit Mexican & Faux Mexican restaurants in the U.S. Now, I would like to introduce Mexican ingredients.

    I am going to begin with Mexican Cheeses, because it always turns into a point of contention when discussing the authenticity of the cuisine here. Now, lets be clear about something....Mexicans eat cheese, we eat a fair amount of it...in some regions Mexicans eat more cheese per capita than most European countries. It is integral in many dishes.

    However, I am sure that I have confused some people here...you have heard us complain about the Melted Cheese that goes over every dish in Faux Mexicaine. More than anything we object to the cheeses used & how they are used or not used.

    Mexico has a dozen or so different mainstream cheeses:

    [​IMG]

    Gourmet Sleuth has a great guide on Mexican cheeses...so there is no reason for me to redouble the work:

    http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/mexicancheeses.htm


    In addition, to these cheeses...there is also a more recent trend of using quality European cheeses in fusion dishes.

    > Dutch Edam has been popular in the Yucatan since the early 1900s
    > Brie, Blue/Green Cheeses, & Chevre are stars in the Nueva Cocina dishes
    > Mexican dairy processors make acceptable imitations of European cheeses.
     

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